赫尔辛基是一部双城记。如果你是仲冬时来到这里，你会看到一个天寒地冻的仙境：冰雪覆盖的街道上空无一人，居民都躲到了舒适、设计上无可挑剔的咖啡馆里。如果你是夏天来，那时候太阳总是不肯落下，你将看到当地人狂欢到凌晨，然后兴高采烈地跳入波罗的海。

虽然这座芬兰首都习惯了被比它年长——或许更时尚的——北欧邻居盖过光芒，但它能给予的远远超出了**次来这里的人的想象。我们试吃了供应暖人心扉的菜肴（驯鹿肉片，有人想吃吗？）的经典餐厅和将北欧美食提升到全新高度的餐厅。

我们安排了沿着滨水区的行程，品评了设计大师Alvar Aalto具有前瞻性的建筑作品。另外，还有一两次桑拿可以让你放松身心。无论什么季节，赫尔辛基的街道、森林和岛屿都适合探索。所以，穿上你的雪地靴——或者你的凉鞋——和我们一起游览这座充满自信和文化的城市吧。

Helsinki is a tale of two cities. Arrive mid-winter and you’ll find a frosty wonderland of deserted, snow-caked streets, the residents holed up in cosy, impeccably designed cafés. Come in summer, when the sun refuses to set, and you’ll catch locals partying merrily into the early hours and leaping gleefully into the Baltic Sea.

The Finnish capital is used to being eclipsed by its older – and perhaps trendier – Nordic neighbours but it has far more to offer than the first-time visitor might think. We’ve taste tested both the classic restaurants serving heartwarming dishes (reindeer fillet, anyone?) and those taking new Nordic cuisine to all-new heights.

We’ve mapped out runs along the waterfront and sized up the visionary structures of design icon Alvar Aalto. Plus, one or two saunas to kick back and relax in – it’s up to you whether you sweat it out in your swimsuit or the buff. Whatever the season, Helsinki’s streets, forests and islands are ripe for exploring. So pull on your snow boots – or your sandals – and join us for a tour of this confident and cultured city.